Antiques and Art

A visit to Leiden and Museum de Lakenhal

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On Tuesday, September 23, we rose early in our apartment on the Herengracht in Amsterdam. The canal just outside our door was quiet, and only a few bicyclists were about. After a simple breakfast in the apartment, we took a tram to the train station and bought two round trip tickets to Leiden, a 37-minute trip on one of Holland's Intercity trains.

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As soon as our train left Amsterdam, we were surrounded by scenes of the beautiful, flat, and largely man-made countryside.

There is a Dutch saying that seemed especially appropriate at that moment: "God made the earth, but the Dutch made Holland."

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densely populated with wildlife,

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before we reached the village.

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We arrived prior to the opening of the museum, so we were able to walk along the canals,

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cross this iconic Dutch bridge,

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and enjoy the legendary Dutch sky.

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Cornelis Engebrechtsz (c. 1462 - 1527) is considered to be the first important painter in Leiden. We had seen his works in both the Rijksmeum and the Met, but we were unprepared for the impact of his paintings as presented in the first gallery of the museum. In addition to The Carrying of the Cross (c. 1510), above, which occupies one wall, the gallery also contains two large altarpieces by Engebrechtsz. It is an extraordinary introduction to the works of this first Leiden master.

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Cornelis Engebrechtsz. Triptych with the Crucifixion of Christ (c. 1515 - 17)

Transferred from the Leiden town hall, 1869

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Cornelis Engebrechtsz. Triptych depicting the Lamentation of Christ with patrons and saints (c. 1508 - 10)

Transferred from the Leiden town hall, 1872

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Anonymous. Pilgrim Misled by the Devil (c. 1530)

A didactic work, teaching that things are not always as they seem.

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Aertgen Claesz van Leyden. The Last Judgement (c. 1530 - 1535)

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Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn. Musical Company (1626)

Rembrandt was born in Leiden and is well represented in Museum den Lakenhal.

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Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn. Spectacles Seller (c. 1624)

"Aged around eighteen, Rembrandt painted the five senses - his earliest known works. This spectacles seller in an eastern-style outfit, who is trying to persuade two customers, represents sight.

At the time, "to sell someone spectacles" also meant to make of fool of him.

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Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn. Painting with Self-portrait of the Painter (1626)

The artist is the curly-haired young man in the distance, half hidden by the king's scepter.

The painting has been on loan from the Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands since 1948. It was recovered from Germany after the war and has been in the protection of the Dutch State, awaiting restitution to the rightful owners or their heirs.

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Jan van Goyen. View of Leiden from the North-East (1650)

A stunning land/seascape by the Leiden-born painter, with landmarks visible in the distance and a spectacular sky.

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Gerrit Dou. The Astronomer (c. 1650)

Another stolen treasure, recovered from Germany and pending restitution.

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Gerrit Dou. Girl with a Lamp (c. 1660 - 70)

In Leiden on loan from Mauritshuis since 2009

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Jan Steen. The Uroscopist (c.1663 - 65)

An intimate interior by this popular Leiden-born painter

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Jan Steen. The Robbed Violin Player (c. 1670 - 72.)

The half-sotted violin player (Steen in self-portrait) appears enchanted by the young woman who is stealing from his purse.

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Jan Steen. A Couple Reading the Bible. (c. 1650)

A self portrait of Steen and his wife Grietje, daughter of painter Jan van Goyen.

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Gabriel Metsu. The Triumph of Justice. (c. 1651 - 53)

A woman wearing a widow's veil and an orphan dressed in red beg for her protection.

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Our final stop in Museum Den Lakenhal was the old brewery that once occupied the premises. Today it displays paintings about brewing, a vital industry in the Netherlands, then and now.

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Back in Amsterdam, our evening meal continued the ale motif with bottles of this renowned and delicious Belgian brew.

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